Kincumber stalwart, Sue Offner, is the beating heart of one of the Coast’s most successful lobster businesses. A warm, chatty presence with a wide smile and a welcoming nature, she’s the kind of person who can talk seafood all day and still leave you wanting more.

‘Our boys have been fishing for lobsters here for over 40 years, but people still don’t realise there’s a whole industry off our coastline,’ she says.

Before dawn: the race against the sea

Each morning, well before the sun rises, the crew arrives at Sue’s property in Kincumber, the smell of baitfish hanging in the darkness.

‘The boys are here at 4 am, loading the punt with pilchards and Australian salmon, before heading to Pretty Beach, where our boats are moored,’ Sue explains. There’s a quiet urgency in these pre-dawn hours, the kind that comes with knowing that the ocean waits for no one.

The fleet is made up of two boats. The smaller 20-foot vessel, Wilderness, is for fishing; the larger, Spinaway 4, stretches 60 feet and is kitted out for lobsters. Once everything is ready, the crew set off through Broken Bay, past Lion Island and out into the open ocean, where the real work begins.

A fishery 65 km offshore

For those chasing snapper, trevally and leatherjackets, the trip might take them 10 km out, running parallel to the coastline. But for lobsters, the real action is much further offshore. ‘They head 65 km east, between Sydney and Budgewoi,’ Sue says. ‘We fish for lobster year-round, but the lobsters’ behaviour changes with the seasons. In winter, they hibernate under rocks, and the boys set traps around Lion Island, sometimes pulling up 20 lobsters in a single pot. But in warmer weather, when they start moving … that’s when things get exciting.’

Sue describes how the lobsters ‘walk’ – a phenomenon where they emerge from their hiding spots and migrate along the ocean floor to the edge of the continental shelf. ‘It sounds crazy but the best time to catch them is when the weather is wild and horrible – that’s when they’re all on the move, following each another like a school of fish and piling into the traps.’

The fishermen know these waters like the back of their hands, reading the ocean’s mood with the practised ease of those who have spent decades at sea. Often times the waves crash against the hull, the wind howls, and the deck rocks beneath their feet as they haul in the traps.

‘Some days, the ocean gives the boys hell,’ Sue says. ‘They went out yesterday in rough weather, left at 3 am and didn’t get back to the dock till 6 pm. It’s long, hard work.’

The coveted eastern rock lobster

The crayfish caught off the Coast are eastern rock lobsters, distinctive for their greenish-brown shells. ‘They can be anywhere from 600 gm to 6 or 7 kg,’ Sue says. ‘The big ones, the “callers” – they lead the smaller ones. We catch and release them – they’re crucial for breeding and the sustainability of the species.’

While much of their catch is shipped overseas – up to 8 tonnes of lobster a year, mainly to China – locals know that the freshest seafood is much closer to home. ‘On Christmas Day alone, we sell around 600 kg of lobster through our shop, Sue & Deb’s Seafood. The line stretches up the driveway and along the street with people carrying their eskies and just waiting.’

A lifelong passion

Peter (Sue’s former husband) started fishing off Terrigal over 40 years ago. When she came along, they bought the Kincumber property, built the shed and started the retail business.

Now, it’s a Central Coast institution. ‘We open Thursday through Saturday, selling fresh fish and lobster straight from the boats. It’s been good to me and my family. There’s good money in lobster, but you’ve got to have good money to start with to buy a lobster quota.’

With each passing season, the sea continues to provide – sometimes in abundance, sometimes with challenges.

‘Last year wasn’t great,’ Sue admits. ‘The boys had a bad current, cold waters, and the lobsters didn’t “walk” much – they stayed hidden under ledges. But this year, we’re seeing better catches, pulling in 500-800 kg each time we go out.’

For those who have never thought of the Central Coast as a lobster hub, Sue says there’s far more to these waters than meets the eye. ‘People love our lobsters, but most have no idea the work that goes into catching them. It’s a tough, unpredictable business, but there’s nothing else like it.’

Sue & Deb’s Seafood is located at 1 Patanga Street, Kincumber. Fresh fish and lobster are available Thursday to Saturday.